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Hello all,
Sorry to revive an old thread, but then again like the Isuzus in question - they never see to actually die!

Anyhow, my 1995 Bighorn is doing the EXACT same thing. It's a Japan import/LHD converted, just purchased 6 weeks ago, and we expected a few wrenches now and again, but after digging into this one, it needs more than just a few wrenches. Things got re-arranged in the conversion, some wires have chaffed through to nothing, little bits & bobs seem to stop working now and again...

One problem is availability of good shops & parts. I'm a Canadian over here in the Philippines for a while, unfortunately (or fortunately depending on your point of view), we are not in Manila or on the same island as Manila. There's lots of help, stores and sources in Manila, but we are out here in the boonies. It's a 3 hr drive to get to a reasonable sized city to buy anything.

About 2 weeks ago, we started having troubles with a dead battery. This is (as I know now) is attributed to a loose alternator belt. I'll get to that this weekend. However the starting is acting up. Some days it will not start to save it's soul, but hook up a spare battery and jump it and it will start (seems to turn a little slow). Took it up to the mechanics last weekend but then he says he'll need the car for a couple days as he's backed up. But the truck is full of groceries and 3 kids, can't leave it today. I'll get someone to run it up tomorrow (it's a 3 hr drive to the mechanic). Next morning - nothing out of the starter. Not a peep or squeek, tried to jumper it - no luck.

So, working through everything I can find, is it the starter or the relay. When I try to start the truck (trying the multimeter hooked up to either lead on the solenoid) there's no voltage at the solenoid when we crank it. You hear the relay click but nothing more.

I thought, maybe it's the tranny inhibitor, but if I try starting it in gear, it doesn't even click. In Park or neutral (it's an AT) the relay clicks, in gear nothing clicks - so that's a good sign.

For the rest, I'm going to give the relay a try, but does anyone know or did you @damo667 ever figure out which relay is which (the 3 ganged together right behind the engine bay fuse box)?

Cheers and thanks for any advice from anyone.
MadDogDean

4 possibilities
Faulty inhibitor switch
To get you out of trouble you can hot wire the solinoid. One connection will wire to the chassis the other wires into the loom. Connect a 6mm wire about 2 meters long to the live side of the battery and touch the other on the live side of the solinoid. This should start the car. Be absolutely certain it is in park or the car will run you over
Faulty solinoid
Unfortunately mine went exactly like yours is. Mines manual so a push start was possible. Not much you can do here Hitting the solinoid with a hammer might shock it into working but the chances are not great. Fix is new starter motor
Faulty starter motor
as above
faulty battery
A test would be turn headlights on while trying to start. If they go out when you turn the key then you should check this better

Hey Greeves, thanks for all that.

Checked a few things today. Inhibitor switch is ok. Headlights burn bright and battery stays at 12.7 while cranking - this tells me there's nothing going to the starter.

Tried to hot wire the solenoid/starter direct and still nothing! This got me wondering, where does the +ve lead from the battery to the solenoid go. According to the wiring diagram on pg 6D2-2 of the manual, it shows a direct wire from the battery to the starter/solenoid. Should I not always at least get a voltage reading off this terminal on the starter?

Cheers,
MadDogDean

I think there is a fusable link somewhere

Thanks again Greeves, I'll let everyone know how I make out.
Cheers

Thanks for the advice Greeves. Pulled the starter today - was a pain in the %@$%@@$ ti wiggle it out, but no need to remove any exhaust parts, nothing! Just pushed the wire looms to the side, popped the tranny filler extension tube off , turned, wiggled flipped, wiggled, turned and out it popped!

Starter tests perfect, in this case the solenoid is shot! There was a crack in the bakelite plastic housing and I think it was an internal short that fried it.

Now to wait on a solenoid and do all of the above in reverse.

Cheers, MadDogDean

When mine failed it it contaminated the starter with residue. It was cheaper to buy an aftermarket complete starter than to buy the parts to fix mine

We're not so lucky here. Finding parts for anything on the Philippines is tough. Half of everything bought here (brand names) are chinese copies/knockoffs. You can buy Samsung phones, Pioneer car radios, iPhones, everything at only 30% of regular price!! But they are all crap-o knock-offs and the retailers even tell you!

The rest of what we need has to be sent in from abroad - that's why I am hoping to be able to only replace the solenoid.

Cheers,
MadDogDean

Hi Maddog
Sorry for delay on response
I've been racking my brain trying to remember, I'm sure I replaced one of the 2 relays that are together behind the battery but cant remember which one..
I cant find anything in my old photos!
I did have a few relay/battery problems with my Suzuki so Its all getting blurred together..
Sorry cant be of more help

Damo

No trouble Damo,
With a little help from Greeves, I was able to determine that it was the solenoid. And it looks like somewhere in the past this solenoid was already *repaird*. The body was peeled open as I can see how it was hammered shut
Just need to source the solenoid or starter in a reasonable timeframe and we are back on the road.

Cheers, MadDogDean