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excedy should be able to supply specs for the clutch and pressure plate Then you can measure them to check. Also did you check the spigot bearing in the flywheel? That could cause this problem

No shims normally, without the dampener it's far easier to bleed normally, just max out the stroke on the master cylinder so there is not even half a mm of free play

Did you have the flywheel machined?

So I have used a ratchet hand winch and pulled the fork to its max throw and the Mu still won’t slip into 1st. If I force it, it will go in but not practical at all, 2nd 3rd 4th and 5th are hard but go in and reverse crunches a little bit doesn’t need to be forced all that much.
am I looking at a buggered pressure plate? Or what, clearly looks internal since i bypassed the hydraulic system. Any thoughts?

Something not mentioned so far is the release bearing. Certainly inside the bellhousing so gearbox out again. Check everything

Will take photos and post up here, no noises coming from release bearing so I assumed it was good to go, but we will see

Did you put a spacer behind the pivot? That will help alot, as above if the step in the flywheel is incorrect or wrong clutch kit for the flywheel from memory theres 3 different size step flywheels

Gearbox back out, still can’t see anything out of the blue, it dropped a lot of clutch dust when removed which I guess is expected. How do I upload photos on here, maybe one of you guru’s can pick a mismatched part?
T.i.a

lot of clutch dust came from somewhere. Look at the clutch plate first. A wear mark will show the problem

Also is it possible that the input shaft is making contact back of the crank, once it is bolted up. This is all I can really think is happening with the symptoms I’m getting, unless I have the wrong flywheel clutch or pressure plate combo

As for the dust, the clutch is slightly glazed on the outer 15-20mm of the plate, unsure what that would suggest.